Proctor : November 2017
48 PROCTOR | November 2017 A little gem Dominique Mayo is a senior lawyer at Clayton Utz. A good gauge of modern Australian tucker by Dominique Mayo Gauge is a little gem of a restaurant located a stone’s throw away from the Fish Lane dining precinct, delivering cleverly understated delicious modern Australian fare. While the wait staff present with a cool and casual demeanour, any queries arising from the menu are met with absolute focus and precision. One quickly gains the impression that, here, the service of food is an art form, not simply something to cure hunger pangs. Wishing to experience the myriad of flavours on offer, I opted for the six-course degustation menu. As it seemed to me, there was no other legitimate way to eat two desserts! The silken sesame tofu in the first course was simply melt in your mouth stuff, and the turnip dashi cleverly created a tangible texture to sit alongside the silken tofu. While the distinct aniseed taste of the dish caught me off guard, I did enjoy its bold flavour. Next up was the spanner crab, proving lusciously creamy and tasty. The spirit of the sea was clearly with me as I munched on the stringy seaweed and spanner crab combination. The sprinkling of sansho pepper provided a delicate kick, if such a thing exists! I only wished there had been more of this delicious course. My deeply entrenched carnivorous ways led me to be sceptical of the third course of the evening: beetroot cooked in beef juices, celeriac and native hibiscus. The beetroot enjoyed a perfect pairing with the celeriac, and the native hibiscus provided some interest and a very subtle fruitiness to the dish. I confess I was especially drawn to the comforting qualities of the celeriac. The subtle beef juices had the effect of replacing the ordinary tartness of the beetroot with a more earthy flavour. Despite the subtle flavours employed to make up this dish, make no mistake, this was a robust and filling course! The next course, the Berkshire pork tenderloin, was simply cooked to perfection. My mouth still waters at the thought of this dish. The broad beans sat atop the two parcels of pork against the kombi vinaigrette and smoked eel emulsion. The menu, rather cheekily, had not revealed the form of the smoked eel – well played. It was the perfect finish to the savoury component of the degustation menu. Talk about a bittersweet dessert: the blackberry pieces were drunk on sweet vermouth and took to the tongue like a short, sharp punch to the guts – but in a good way. I was delighted by the purple carrot sorbet, which was not only a gorgeous dark plum colour, but tasted better than I could have imagined. I was definitely a fan. Might I add, this served as a superb palate cleanser. Now, for the final chapter: beetroot sorbet with white chocolate crème and yoghurt crumb with fried rosemary. The dish quickly transported me back to my childhood with its hints of white Christmas, and while I initially considered the beetroot sorbet was at risk of overpowering the otherwise sweetish dish, ultimately, it all worked a treat. I thoroughly enjoyed the culinary risk taking in the kitchen, exploring unique and interesting modern Australia fare and, in particular, the savoury sweetness of the dessert courses. Never in my wildest dreams did I consider I would get so excited over purple carrot sorbet! I can hardly wait for my next encounter. Dining Our Corporate Programme rewards are engineered around You. Members of the Queensland Law Society can take advantage of these benefits* today: • Reduced dealer delivery fee* • Complimentary scheduled ser vicing* • Total of 4 years Mercedes-Benz roadside care Call 1300 119 493 or visit www.mercedes-benz/corporate * Terms and conditions apply. Benefits subject to eligibility.